Insulation in a camper van is a highly debated topic. Many people have many different opinions as to what works the best or if insulation should even be used at all. After looking at all options available, we decided to use 3M Thinsulate and believe this to be the best option available on the market.

We actually went back and forth on multiple options and debated about which would be the best to use for our van build. It’s one of those things that can keep you up at night. After all, it is a foundational step that you want to get right.

There are many steps in the van build that you could simple change along the way but insulation isn’t as simple. Once insulation is installed, you will likely have walls, cabinets, ceiling and flooring mounted so it won’t be as easy to go back and change the insulation.

Among the factors we considered when choosing the type of insulation we would use included:

• Ease of installation – this was number one for me because I didn’t want to spend a lot of time on this step and I didn’t want a messy job.
• Time of installation – I had seen videos of people taking weeks or even months to finish insulating their vans. I wanted to do something that would take less time.
• Health – I didn’t want to be breathing harmful chemicals from materials often found in insulation.
• Weight – I wanted it to be as lightweight as possible.
• Effectiveness – I wanted it to be effective at helping the control the temperature inside the van.
• Noise reduction – A van is just a thin metal shell. It can be noisy so I wanted insulation that could help reduce that noise.

The Case for not insulating a van

I really never considered not insulating our van but I did do some research about it. The school of thought is that insulating a van that is mostly in a warm climate isn’t as effective as insulating one that is in a cold climate.

There is probably some truth to this but I haven’t felt the effect of it yet. I do live in a warmer climate and since installing our Thinsulate insulation, It has been much more climate controlled than it was before.

Besides that, the noise level is much less than it was when the van was just a big metal box.

I suppose if you were ONLY going to use your van in hot climates, you could get by with Reflectix or some type of reflective barrier.

However, I feel that insulation combined with a gap and reflective barrier has worked best for our van build.

The options that we considered for van insulation

There were really on three options that we even considered. Most of which are among the most popular that you see for van builds.

These options include:

• Polyiso board – the cheapest solution but the most difficult and time consuming to install
• Thinsulate – the most expensive but easiest and least time consuming to install
• Reflectix – this really isn’t an insulation but we did throw around the idea of only using this throughout the van.

At first, we decided to go with Polyiso board. It was cheap and available locally and was highly rated as far as the insulation factor goes. We purchased two one inch 4′ x 8′ boards of this at our local Home Depot and thought we had our plan figured out.

In fact, we actually did end up using 1/2 inch Polyiso on the floor. It made sense on the floor since we built a square joist system that made it easy to cut and install into the areas. It was like putting a puzzle together and it actually made a noticeable difference in the road noise. We were happy with that and proceeded to use the 1 inch version of the same thing on the rest of the van.

This sounded like a good plan until I started measuring and cutting and realized how difficult and messy it was going to be. It’s nearly impossible to cut this insulation perfect for each area so you have to use Great Stuff to feel in the gaps and hold it in place.

I’m not a fan of Great Stuff and didn’t want to touch it and after much debate on whether or not it would be worth the trouble, we decided to go back to the drawing board.

Thinsulate was the other option on the table and it was becoming more clear that it was the one to go with.

Why Thinsulate is the Best Option

Thinsulate stood out as the clear winner for us because of a few key areas.

1. It was easy to install. As stated before, I didn’t want to spend a lot of time on insulation but I wanted a good foundation.
2. It has sound deadening properties. This was very important to me as I wanted my van to be as quiet as possible while parked as well as while driving down the road.
3. It’s Super lightweight. You want to add as little weight as possible during your van build. Although the weight savings probably wasn’t much over Polyiso, it all adds up in the end.
4. It doesn’t hold moisture. Very important in a van build where condensation could be present quite often.
5. It has a decent R value. It isn’t much different in R value than the Polyiso board. With an R value of 5, it was sufficient for our needs.

We decided to go with Thinsulate in the end and I am so glad we did. It was actually fun installing it because I felt like I was getting something accomplished. It was easy to cut to size (as long as you have sharp scissors) and then stick up by using 3M spray.

I actually finished the whole van in only two days and they weren’t even full two days. It was actually just one full day when you consider I only spent half of the each day working on it.

Of course there are other options that you can use on your van but most of the other options got scratched off of our list very quickly.

Insulation on top of insulation

Having already purchased Polyiso boards, I decided that I could make use of it in areas where there would still be gaps behind the walls. I also figured it would be good to use it in the shower walls so that the noise level would be cut down a little.

I’m not sure if it helped much but at least I made use of it since it was out of the return window.

I also had leftover Reflectix that I used to make the window coverings. I found the perfect place for this as I began planning the ceiling furring strips and cedar planking. There would be about an inch gap between the Thinsulate and the ceiling wood so I figured it would be a great place to add a reflective radiant barrier.

As you can see in the image, I added the Reflectix to the furring and there was still a gap between it and the Thinsulate which is the best way to install Reflectix according to the manufacturer.

I was also able to use the leftover Reflectix on the ceiling and along the walls to create additional radiant barriers.

In truth, I’m not sure how all this will work because in the end, it is still just a big metal box. There are still metal areas exposed in the van that are hot to the touch so are these areas offsetting all the hard work I did in insulation?

I don’t think so. I’m confident that what I have done with insulation is much better than not having done anything at all. Combine that with the fact that I didn’t spend a ton of time on it and I feel good about my combination of materials used.

How is it working out?

I haven’t fully finished our van yet in order to take it on an actual trip but I have spent a lot of time in it working on other parts of the build.

Insulation in the Winter

Having finished my insulation project in the autumn I have had the opportunity to test it out throughout the winter. I was installing walls, ceiling, shower, cabinets and other things during this time.

Throughout the winter I noticed that once I got in my van, closed the doors and began to work, the van became pleasantly warm and stayed that way for a good period of time.

I’m certain that this would not have been the case had I not insulated it so well. I likely will not be doing a whole lot of winter travel but If I do it will probably be to a place with a warmer climate.

Insulation in the summer

My plan was to have our van ready to go by March 31 so that we could go on some spring trips. However, life happened and I was still left with a lot to do when that deadline came.

So my build has continued through the summer. It is now July 4th as I write this and I still have plenty left to do. I have been working in the heat to get things done and I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel.

What I have noticed is that it does get quite stuffy in the van during the heat of the day. This is to be expected I would imagine. However, if there is a breeze blowing, I can open the windows and the roof fan and it becomes fairly pleasant inside.

Once the sun goes down, the heat doesn’t stay around long as long as you have some airflow going through the van.

I am so glad that we decided to add an additional window in the rear of the van. I believe this window will be the key in keeping us cool.

I also think that having insulation in the summer is better than not having it. It was summer when we first purchased our van and it was super hot working inside of it. I feel like it is much more pleasant to work in now since it has been insulated.

However, the windows and the airflow created by them has a lot to do with it as well.

Would I do it over again?

If I was going to make another van into a camper van, I would probably do much of the same thing on the next one. I would absolutely choose Thinsulate as my main insulator.

However, I probably would not use any Polyiso board on any part of the van other than the floor. I believe this type of insulation works great for floor insulation.

I would also use Reflectix again but only on the ceiling. I went Reflectix crazy on this van build and put it in every nook and cranny on both the ceiling and the walls. Of course, this is mainly because I had a large amount of leftover and wanted to use it all.

Overall I’m happy with the outcome of my insulation project. I look forward to seeing how it will perform on an actual trip.

Conclusion

Having gone through the insulation process and obsessing over how to do it right, I can breathe easy now knowing that I did the best I could. I really don’t know if the insulation is going to be sufficient but I believe it will be.

If you are obsessing over insulating your van or RV, I have a few tips for you:

• Just pick an insulation type and go with it. I believe that any insulation is better than none (unless it’s fiberglass batts or denim).
• Don’t expect to keep out all heat or cold simply by insulating your van.
• Nothing will be perfect so don’t spend too much time on this step in your build.

I spent way too much time worrying about whether I was going to insulate my van perfect or not. I thought it would matter more than it actually does. However, I’m really glad I insulated it as I believe I now have a solid foundation and that will provide more comfort.

Now it’s time to get on with the more fun parts of the van build.

Cutting a hole in the top of your van is one of the scariest things you’ll do during your van build.  This is something I put off for a long time because once it’s done, there is no going back.  I imagined every possible scenario of what could go wrong.

I watched so many videos and read all the blog posts I could about how to install one.  I’m pretty handy so it wasn’t the how to of the whole process that scared me.  

Instead, it was the mental challenge of cutting a hole in a perfectly fine, leak-free roof of my new van that was so scary.

The time had come for me to do this because I wanted to get it in so that I would be done with it.  I could then move forward with insulating, installing flooring, walls, etc.  

I picked a time when I knew the weather would be good for at least a few days.  I didn’t want to see any rain in the forecast and preferred the temperatures to be between 50 – 70 degrees Fahrenheit so that the caulking would dry properly.

I installed my fan in October and the weather was just right where I live.  I simply followed the following steps outlined below.

Where should we put it?

The first thing I wanted to do was decide exactly where I wanted the fan to go.  I gave a lot of thought to this.  

With our layout, I preferred the fan to be close to the bathroom area.  There is a perfect flat spot for the fan on a Promaster near the front.  However, this spot is too far towards the front for what we wanted.  We decided to move it back a little bit so that It would be closer to the bathroom area.

Since we’ll also be taking showers in this area, it makes sense to locate our fan as close to this area as possible.  We intend for our fan to serve multiple purposes.  

The main purpose is provide adequate airflow throughout the van.  

The second purpose is to allow odors to escape from things like cooking and nature calls.  

The third purpose is to allow moisture or steam to escape for when we take showers or cook food, boil water, etc.

It’s important to keep these types of things in mind when you are locating your fan.  Make sure you put it in a central location where you have all areas covered that the fan might be used for.

Tools You’ll Need

Installing a fan is a pretty simple process.  However, it does require a few tools that you may or may not have lying around.  

The following is a list of tools that I used during my install.

• Cardboard – for creating a template. It’s a shame that it doesn’t come with one but creating one is simple enough.
• Sharpie – for marking my template onto the roof.
• Jigsaw – for cutting the hole.  There are other saws you can use but nothing beats the jigsaw in my opinion.
• Jigsaw sheet metal blade – preferably a 36 TSI blade assuring that the cut is smooth as can be.
• File – for filing the edges of the cutout after the hole has been cut.
• Rustoleum paint – for painting the bare edges of the cutout to ensure no rust or corrosion in the future.
• Drill with 1/8 inch bit – for drilling the screw holes that hold the fan frame to the roof.
• Butyl tape – for sealing the fan when screwing it down.
• Self-leveling caulk / sealant – for a final layer of sealing.

All of these tools can be found online or at your local hardware store.

Marking The Hole

Once you have all the tools you will need, you’ll begin by making a template of the cutout.  

I created a template out of cardboard that was the exact measurement of the fan.  In the case of the Maxxair fan, you can cut a 14 inch X 14 inch hole and you should be ok.  However, I would recommend tracing the fan onto cardboard and then cutting it out to create the perfect template.  The template was actually a bit smaller than 14 X 14.

Tip: it’s better to make the hole as tight as possible.  You can always file away parts or cut more as needed but you can’t put it back if you get the hole too big.

I actually practiced installing the fan into the hole I cut in the cardboard as if it were the roof of my van.  This ensured that my template was correct.

After the template is made, you’ll need to mark the cutout hole.  This is simple but you better get it right.  You don’t get a second chance on this so make sure you measure twice or even more before you start cutting.

Cutting The Hole

After the template is traced onto the van ceiling, now is time to begin the part that most (including me) dread.  I traced mine onto the ceiling and then drilled a small hole in the center of my template up through the roof.  

That way, I can tell where the center of the template should be placed once I get up on the roof.  

After climbing up onto the roof, I positioned my template so that the drill hole was in the center, traced the template on the roof and was left with the exact place I needed to cut for my Maxxair fan.

Let the fun begin…

I made sure to have a good sharp sheet metal blade for my jigsaw before I began.  I chose to use the Bosch ones that I purchased at Home Depot.  You can get them from Amazon or pretty much anywhere else as well.  Be sure to get the 36 TPI (teeth per inch) blades for best results on thin sheet metal.  

To begin, I drilled a hole in each corner of the cutout so I could have a starting point for my jigsaw blade.  After that, it was just a matter of tracing the line with my jigsaw until the hole was cut out.

Now the reality sets in that you have a hole in your roof and there is no going back.  Fortunately, the hole was perfect and my fan sat down in it nice and tight.

Prepping the cut edges

The next step was to file off any rough spots where I had cut and then re-paint the edges with Rustoleum paint to avoid any rust or corrosion in the future.  I also decided to go ahead and line up my fan and drill holes where the screws would go.  That way, I would be able to also paint those holes as well.

NOTE: Be sure and carefully vacuum up any metal shavings that are left on the roof after cutting and drilling. You may also choose to use a strong magnet or sticky tape to gently pick them up.

I put a couple of coats on and let it dry overnight. 

This was perhaps the easiest step in the whole process since I could rest easy knowing that my hole was correct and I just needed to clean it up.  What a relief.

Installing The Fan

The next day, the first order of business was to put butyl tape on the underside of the fan frame.  I also used butyl tape to build up the low areas in the roof, creating a flat, watertight surface to sit the fan frame down on.

Once the butyl tape was on, it was ready to place the fan frame in.  Be careful when you do this because once you sit it down with the butyl tape, you may never move it again.  Butyl tape can be quite sticky especially when it is hot outside and you are sticking it to a hot metal roof.

Be sure it’s lined up exactly how you want it.  This probably isn’t a problem if you haven’t already drilled holes.  In my case, I had already drilled the screw holes through the roof and needed to make sure I lined it up perfect with those holes.  

Fortunately, I did.

Looking back, I probably wouldn’t have drilled the holes beforehand.  I would have drilled them after the fan frame was positioned into place.

All that was left was to screw the fan frame onto the roof.  I would suggest using wood on the underside of the roof to give your screws something the bite into.  I used 1×2 furring strips and screwed the screws directly into them.

Many people simply screw into the metal of the roof and this is probably fine.  However, I feel like having extra wood below will give more stability and hold up better long term.

Making Sure it won’t leak

After the fan frame was screwed in, I removed the excess butyl tape that had squeezed out and then added Dicor Self-leveling Lap Sealant around all the edges and on top of all the screws.  

Self-leveling lap sealant is great for these types of installations because it will spread itself out and get into the nooks and crannies, creating a strong watertight seal.  Just be sure you put it on when it isn’t going to rain for a few days.

I used an entire tube of lap sealant on my fan.  This was more than enough but I wanted to make sure there will not be any leaks.  I’m confident that there won’t be.

The final step in the install was to put the actual fan onto the frame.  This is easy with the four screws provided.  

Testing the fan

I tested my fan out using a portable car jump starter that I have that has a 12 volt power system.  I simply plugged in the wires to it, turned it on and tested all the settings.  It worked like it should and I was surprised by how much air it actually brings in and pulls out.  

I would suggest testing your fan as soon as possible just in case there are problems.  You don’t want to install your fan and then get around to testing it six months later when you finally get your solar installed.  

You’ll end up with a fan that doesn’t work and is out of the return window.

Test it as soon as you get it installed in your van so that you can rest easy knowing that the job is done and the fan works!

Final Step

It’s time to put the trim piece on in the interior.  

The final step you’ll take on your fan install is a very satisfying one but you may not get to do it for a while.  

Installing the interior trim won’t happen until you have finished with your interior ceiling.  Adding the trim is just a matter of putting the four screws in that it comes with.  It’s really simple but it feels so good when you finally get it put in. 

It will actually feel like a finished product and you can envision your van build being closer to being complete.

Sit back and enjoy the cool air

Overall, the fan install wasn’t nearly as difficult as I had envisioned.  Even though I had watched videos and knew how to do it, I was still scared to cut that hole.  In the end, I’m glad I did as I believe this to be one of the essentials in order to spend time comfortably in a small van.

I will also be installing windows in my van in order to increase the air flow.  I expect the windows and fan to work together to create a flow of air that will keep me cool and help to get rid or smells and moisture that may get trapped otherwise.

If you are on the fence as to whether or not you should install a fan in your camper van or RV, I would say that I wouldn’t build a van without it.  I have used it extensively while working on other areas of the van.  Sometimes it can get stuffy when you are crawling around in the van working on flooring, walls or any other part.  It’s nice to have the airflow that the Maxxair fan creates.

There was a time when I wasn’t sure I wanted to put a fan in my roof.  I just didn’t want to take the chance of cutting a hole and ending up with a damaged roof if something went wrong.  However, I took my time and went step by step and it ended up being pretty easy.

I wouldn’t want to be without the Maxxair fan and I’m sure you’ll feel the same way after you have installed yours.

If you’ve ever ridden in a cargo van, you know just how loud these metal boxes can be. Road noise can be unbearable on long trips as you hear nearly everything along the way. Even the smallest bump can echo throughout the van as the metal panels vibrate.

These vans are built for work so having a quiet and comfortable ride is something that isn’t considered in their design. If you want these luxuries, you have to build it in yourself.

This is why I decided to install a sound deadening material throughout the cargo area of the van before doing anything else. I wanted to try and create as quiet of an environment inside the van as possible.

There are numerous options when considering sound deadening for a vehicle and some of the options on my list are listed below.

I chose the Noico 80 mil sound deadening mat for this project. Out of the four that were on my list, I felt like this one would be the best for my needs. I liked how it looked and it was among the cheapest option available.

It also has good reviews from others who have used it in van builds so I thought I’d give it a shot.

Sound deadening mat absorbs the vibrations that would normally travel throughout the thin sheet metal that makes up the cargo van. By adding mass to the sheet metal, you will likely hear more of a thud as you hit a bump rather than a vibration of the sheet metal.

At least this is what I hope will happen.

I’ve seen many people mistakenly call this soundproofing. This is in no way soundproofing. It is simply a way to minimize the vibrations in the large areas of sheet metal.

However, this is a good first step if you are looking to soundproof your van. I aim to use various products that will all work together to keep unwanted noises to a minimum.

I purchased this material for use in my camper van and I would like to share my review of the material and the process of installing it.

First Impressions

I ordered two of the 36 Sq ft boxes of this and when it arrived on my doorstep, I was surprised at how heavy each box was. I didn’t weigh it but the product description says it is 28 pounds for one box so I had nearly 60 pounds of sound deadener material sitting on my front porch.

First impressions were great. It seemed to be very high quality and was in sheets that were easy to work with. Each box has nine sheets of the material in it and the diamond patterns on it make it easy to cut and stay in a straight line.

Installing the sound deadening in my camper van

Tools needed for the job

Of course, you’ll need the Noico sound deadener material itself. I purchased mine here.

You’ll also need…

• Roller – used to roll it onto the metal so that it will be most effective
• Sharp scissors – it’s easy to cut with scissors but they will get messy from the tar-like material
• Tape measure
• Marker
• Good gloves – this stuff has sharp corners and can cut you if you aren’t careful. It also can leave a sticky residue on your hands so it’s best to wear gloves.
• Degreaser – I used Krud Kutter in an aerosol can. It’s easy to spray on and wipe back off leaving the surface squeaky clean.

The first place I wanted to make sure to install this was on the wheel wells. This is one of the noisiest and most vibrating areas in the van so I thought it would be the most effective here.

It was also a good test to see how good it would actually work.

I installed it on one wheel well first and then banged on it for a test. There was a noticeable difference between the one with sound deadening and the one without.

After the wheel wells were completed, I continued installing it on the sides and the ceiling and floor. I wasn’t concerned with covering every square inch. I just wanted to get a large percentage of each area covered.

Here is the method I used to install the material.

1. Plan out exactly where I wanted to put it. You don’t need to install it all over the place, only in areas that you deem likely to vibrate the most.
2. Once I had my plan, the next step was to measure and cut the material to size. I did this in small squares so that each square would be easier to work with.
3. Before placing the squares onto the metal, I cleaned the metal of the van with a degreaser and then dried it off. This will help to ensure the material will stick. I used KrudKutter and it worked great.
4. Once the squares were cut and the surface was cleaned, I stuck them into place. I typically worked within a small area of the van placing the small squares in that area.
5. After I had all the squares stuck on, I went back and rolled them on tightly with the roller. This is a very important step because you can tell a difference after doing this. It gives it a little more sound reduction from being rolled on tightly.

That’s it! It was a simple process but it was a LOT of work. It was difficult rolling it on because you have to push fairly hard to get it flattened out.

However, the product makes it easy to know when it is properly seated. The diamond patterns on the material will flatten out and it’s easy to tell the areas that are done from the areas that still need work.

Results

After going through both boxes of the material, I did notice a difference throughout the whole van although it wasn’t as dramatic as I thought it would be.

You can tell that if you bang on the side walls or the floor, it does create more of a quick thud instead of the longer-lasting vibrating sound from before.

However, if I had it to do over, I would probably buy less of it and concentrate it on the noisier areas like the wheel wells, side panels, and floor. I probably wouldn’t touch the ceiling with it because I barely notice a difference there.

Installation tip:

Be sure and order a good roller when you purchase this stuff. It’s cheap and it makes the installation much easier. I’ve seen people in Youtube reviews using cans, tennis balls, and other items and that’s nonsense when you can get a cheap roller that does a better job.

The roller is the main tool that you will use and it makes sense to get a good one. You don’t want to be rolling and have the tool fall apart on you.

The roller I purchased did great throughout the whole install and allowed me to get the material properly seated.

What does 80 mil mean?

When I was first looking at sound deadening material, I was a little confused at what some of the numbers meant. I initially assumed that 80 mil must mean that it is 80 millimeters thick.

I thought, there is no way that it could be this thick. That would make the material over three inches thick.

Of course, that’s not what it means at all. What it really means is that the material is 0.08 inches thick.

1 mil = .001 inch

so

80 mil = .08 inch

50 mil vs 80 sound deadening

If you are in the market for sound deadening, I would recommend going with 80 mil. It is thicker and will provide a better vibration reduction over 50 mil.

It will be a bit heavier but overall, it will be more effective for reducing noises.

If you are going to go through the trouble of installing a sound deadening material, be sure to do it right from the start. 80 mil is a good thickness to use and will provide sound reduction without being too heavy.

Noico claims that their thicker 80 mil will give you 1.5 times greater insulating effectiveness than from their 50 mil product.

Final Thoughts

I’m not sure this was a necessary step in the process of my van build but I’m glad I did it. I can tell a difference and it doesn’t sound as much like a tin can when driving down the road.

However, don’t expect this to create a super quiet ride for you. This is simply a vibration dampener and should be combined with other acoustic insulation if you expect a more quiet environment.

Overall, the process of installation was very easy and I have put together a pro and con list below from my experience.

Pros

• Low odor – tiny asphalt odor in the beginning but goes away quickly
• Easy to install – peel and stick and roll it into place
• Low cost – adds a great sound deadening layer for a small price to pay
• Quality – you get all the quality as some of the more expensive brands for less money

Cons

• Sharp corners – I had quite a few nicks and cuts when I was done installing it. You can avoid this by always wearing protective gloves.

Plain and simple, if you are building out a camper van or want fewer sound vibrations in your vehicle, you can’t go wrong with Noico 80 mil.

It provides a solid base of sound deadening that you can then add to with sound-deadening insulation to help create a quieter ride.

We plan to use Thinsulate for our insulation which will hopefully provide an acoustic barrier that will keep more sound out.

Learn more about our experience with installing Thinsulate in our van.

When we purchased our van, it came with a mess of stuff bolted to the floor.  As I’m sure many people experience, we had to rip this stuff out and then worry with the holes that were left.

Had we realized there were going to be so many holes to fill, we may have kept looking and passed on the purchase of this van. 

However, we had been looking for a while and high top vans aren’t easy to find close to where we live, unless you want to order a brand new one from the dealer.  That’s not something we wanted to do so our search for the perfect used one led us to this one.

Everything else was perfect and to be honest, we didn’t even think about how difficult removing items from the cargo area and patching holes would be.  We figured that everyone has to go through this when they buy a used van.

The first order of business was to remove the 1 x 6 wood boards and the track system that was mounted to the floor.  

These were held in with a combination of bolts and pop rivets.  I knew I was in for a treat with the pop rivets.  In my experience, these things are a pain in the butt to remove.  The best way I have found is to drill them out.  

There are other ways, but this is the way I chose and it worked pretty well.

The bolts required going underneath the van and also required someone to hold the other side of the bolt from the top side while I loosened the nut from the bottom side.  

This wasn’t difficult but time consuming and frustrating at times as I bumped my knuckles, elbows and head on different parts of the van underside.  

In total, there were 128 holes from all the bolts and rivets that were removed.  

Wow, if someone had told me at the dealership that there were 128 holes to patch, I would have probably walked. 

Having removed the bolts and rivets, I was left with all these holes to patch.  Before patching these holes, I wanted to clean, sand and paint all areas that were bare metal.  

The floor didn’t have any rusty areas, thank goodness.  However, I did plan to go ahead and paint the whole floor just to make it look nice.

I’m a perfectionist and I want to know that every part of the van was done right.  I wouldn’t feel right just covering up a scuffed up metal floor.  That’s not me.  

So my next step was to sand each hole along with the entire floor.  I then painted each hole with two coats of Rustoleum white protective enamel paint.  

After that had dried, I put two coats of the same paint on the entire floor and wheel wells along with any areas on the side walls that had paint rubbed off.  

I was on a mission to make the cargo area of this van look like it had just come off the assembly line.  I’ll have to say, the before and after was impressive and I’m glad I went through the trouble to make it look as good as I did.  

The next step was to fill in the holes and I accomplished this in a  variety of ways.  

My first choice was to put pop rivets back into the holes where they had come out of and this is what I did for about 60 holes.  

I feel like this provides a good seal and closed the hole up just as well as it was before.  I also plan to go underneath the van and put sealant around each rivet where it is poking through just to be sure it is watertight.

The rest of the holes I tried different options but finally settled on JB Weld Steelstik.  I had tried Permatex liquid metal filler and it was terrible.  It just cracked and fell right through the hole with the slightest amount of pressure.  It wasn’t suitable at all for this application.  The JB Weld dried and felt as though it was as sturdy as the metal floor was.  

A few tubes of JB Weld later, I was finally finished with all of these holes in the floor.

In the end, I was happy how it turned out.  It took far longer than I had imagined but that was only because I was meticulous and wanted to do every thing as correctly as possible.  

I feel like this is foundational stuff that needs to be done right.  

Now that the floor has been done to my satisfaction, I can move on to the next step in my build process knowing that I have done the best I could on the floor.

View the next step – Installing sound deadening material…

Searching for a van can be a daunting task. It’s often difficult to find a good used van that is in excellent condition with low mileage. On the other hand, buying a new van is expensive and isn’t usually a good idea since vehicles depreciate so much.

Which Van is Best For Conversion to a Camper?

This question will depend entirely upon what you are looking for in a van. Whether you are looking for a small van or a large van, there are many options for you to choose from.

The one that is best for you might not be the best option for someone else.

During my search, I mainly focused on three models of vans and each of them had something unique to offer that the other one didn’t.

However, I had some specific criteria that I was looking for in my van. In order to choose the best van for myself, it had to meet these criteria as close as possible.

The criteria that I set for my search were as follows:

1. It needed to be wide enough to sleep sideways in the van. The layout I had designed had the bed facing in this manner.
2. It needed to be a high roof so that it would be comfortable to move around in.
3. It would need to be a medium length van. The 159″ wheelbase Ram Promaster offered the ideal size.
4. If used, mileage needed to be less than 30,000 miles.
5. I wanted something that was no more than a couple of years old. At the time of my build, it was 2018 so I was set on buying something 2016 or newer.
6. The price needed to be $25k or less.

Obviously, you will probably have different criteria if you decide to convert a van to a camper. Some will require more space and some will require less.

Whatever the case may be, you should set out to make a list of criteria for yourself and then choose the van that best suits your needs.

Best Van Options For DIY Camper Conversion

Since finding the perfect van for you is a personal option, there are many vans that will work and will probably be included in your search.

There are a few common models that are typically used when one wants to convert a van into a camper. The following list contains the most popular and most reliable vans on the market.

Mercedes Sprinter

The most expensive of all is the Mercedes Sprinter. The Sprinter is a popular option mainly because of the Mercedes name. It offers small options as well as larger options and also is available in diesel or gasoline.

Many people prefer a diesel engine for the extra power that it provides. However, a diesel engine was not a criterion of mine and I actually did not want a diesel engine because diesel engine fuel is more expensive where I live and also isn’t available in all locations like gasoline is.

The Sprinter vans are available in 144-inch wheelbase all the way up to 170-inch wheelbase and come in a low roof or high roof option.

The downside of the Sprinter van, in my opinion, is the narrow width. Since I wanted my bed positioned sideways within my van, the Sprinter did not offer enough space for this so this van was off of the table for me.

Other downsides include the high price tag as well as the high price required to maintain the van.

Ram Promster

The Promaster is a popular option for van builders and it has many positive things going for it. Unlike the sprinter van, it is only available in a gasoline engine and also only in two-wheel-drive.

The Mercedes Sprinter as mentioned above is available in two-wheel-drive and the all-new 2019 version is available in four-wheel-drive.

The Ram Promaster has been around for many years in Europe and is marketed as the Fiat Ducato. It has a proven track record and is a dependable van and works perfectly for a van build.

In fact, many commercial class B motorhomes are built on this chassis.

The good thing about the Promaster is that it has a wider body and allows a full-size bed to be positioned sideways within the cabin. This is important to me because of my layout and it was one of my major criteria.

The Promaster is easy to find, easy to service, and the V6 gasoline engine provides plenty of power as well as outstanding fuel efficiency. It is also easy to drive and has a comfortable but minimal cabin.

Ford Transit

Another popular option is the Ford transit and this van is available in many different configurations. They come in short-wheelbase is as well as longer wheelbases and the roof options include low roof, medium roof, and high roof.

The Transit is sure to meet the requirements of most conversion van builders.

However, like the Sprinter, the Ford Transit has a narrow footprint and does not allow a full-size bed to be positioned sideways. This ruled the Transit out in my search.

The Transit is a dependable van that can easily be serviced throughout the United States no matter where you are. It’s very easy to drive and very comfortable and has all the modern conveniences that you are used to in a vehicle.

The Transit is also now available in four-wheel-drive which is great for those who have the need to go off-road from time to time.

Nissan NV

I’m a big fan of Nissan as I have owned a Nissan Frontier for nine years now without any problems. My wife owns a Nissan and we have owned other Nissans in the past. We have never had problems with any of them.

I initially looked at the Nissan NV as an option for a conversion van. However, for my taste, the Nissan NV was just a bit small and it was also hard to find in my area. Not to mention, it looks a little strange with the body shape that it has.

Like most all of Nissan vehicles, the NV is very fuel-efficient and allows for a lot of space in a small van. You don’t see as many Nissan NV‘s as camper vans but they do make a great option if you are looking to build out your own van.

The NV comes with a V-6 or a V-8 engine and has plenty of power to carry your camper van wherever you need to go.

Chevrolet Express

If you are looking for a low roof van or one that you can add a pop-top to, the Chevy Express is a great option. This van is commonly seen as a work van for companies in different industries.

From plumbers to electricians, you see these vans all over the place. They are a dependable option.

These are easy to find used since most companies use vans like this as work vans.

However, be careful buying used work vans especially if they have high mileage. These types of vans get used and abused by many different people over the years and can be a nightmare if you end up with one that has been misused or not well maintained over the years.

Ford Econoline

Similar to the Chevrolet Express, the Ford Econoline is also a great option if you are seeking a lower roof van. These are also easy to find and can be purchased used for a great price if you are looking to build a van for less.

The production of these ceased in 2015 so if you were interested in this van, you’ll have to settle for a used one.

VW Vans

If you want a vintage option or one with some character, a VW van may be the way to go. Many people appreciate the old school feel of a van like this. Some of the options include the Westfalia, Volkswagen Type II, and the Vanagon.

This type of van will probably require a lot of work because you may have to do mechanical work in order to make it functional. If you like old vehicles and are up to the challenge, Volkswagen vans can be a very cool option.

What is the Most Reliable Van?

If I’m going to spend money on purchasing a van for a camper conversion, I want to know that it will be reliable and last for many years to come. Most modern vans are reliable as long as they are taken care of and maintained properly.

There is no way to say what type of van is the most reliable. Many people have different experiences with different brands and models of vans.

The three most common brands which include the Ford Transit, the Mercedes Sprinter, and the Ram Promaster which are all written about above are at the top of the list if you are looking for a reliable van.

You can’t go wrong with any of these three as long as you do your homework and make sure you are buying a van that has been well-maintained if it is a used one.

Of course, there will always be those lemons or duds that you will find from time to time. However, this is uncommon and is unlikely.

What is the Most Economical Van?

Fuel economy is very important to me and I want to know that the van that I choose is going to get good fuel efficiency. Of course, there are also other things to consider with fuel economy.

It isn’t just about the van or the engine or transmission. You must also consider the weight of the vehicle and the aerodynamics can also come into play.

If you are going to have a roof rack with solar panels and other things up on your roof that can cause wind resistance, the fuel efficiency may suffer.

On the other hand, if you make your van build as light as possible and do all that you can to make it as aerodynamic as possible, you will reap the benefits of a fuel-efficient van.

I prefer either the Ram Promaster or the Ford Transit in the case of fuel efficiency. I also prefer a gasoline engine and in my mind, I am seeking to get between 16 and 22 miles per gallon with my camper van conversion.

My Choice and Process For Purchasing a Van

After all, was said and done on my search for the perfect van, the only two models that I was interested in were the Mercedes Sprinter or the Ram Promaster.

The Ram Promaster seems very well suited for a camper van and many of the Class B motorhomes are built on the Promaster chassis.

Right from the start of my search, I realized that the Sprinter was quite a bit more expensive than the Promaster. This was to be expected. However, it is also slightly more narrow which would make it difficult to fit my bed sideways as my layout required.

I decided to narrow my search down to a Promaster.

The difficult part was finding one that wasn’t hundreds of miles away. I wanted a used one but I didn’t want to drive all over the country to look at a van that I wasn’t even sure would work for me. I had never even stepped inside a Promaster at the time that I began my search.

I finally found one at a dealer that was less than 50 miles from where I live and it was exactly what I was looking for. I immediately called about it and went to look at it.

Once I stepped inside the van, I realized that it was perfect for what I was looking for. I knew that I would be able to build an awesome home on wheels with this vehicle.

The van checked off all the boxes on my list so I snatched it up the same day and drove it home.

The van was a 2017 Ram Promaster 2500 high roof. It had 27,300 miles on it and I purchased it for $23300.

It was well under book price so I am happy with that decision. The drive back from the dealer was a pleasure and the van seemed to be exactly what I was looking for.

Of course, it’s just an empty metal shell at this point so it seems a bit overwhelming to look into the cargo area and think about the work that has to be done to get it camper van ready.

The van buying part is over, now comes the fun part of actually putting our plan to work.