When I decided to build a conversion van, an electrical system was one of the things that scared me the most. I am not an electrician.

Although I do have a background in low-voltage wiring and electronics, I do not have very much knowledge of high-voltage systems and I am not qualified to install a full-blown electrical system in a van, house or any other type of structure.

At first, I considered hiring this out to an electrician but being the perfectionist that I am, I find it difficult to relinquish tasks to others, especially on a project like this when I didn’t have a solid plan yet on what I wanted.

If I were to hire an electrician to come in and do it for me, I would probably end up getting it done the way that they wanted to do it since I was not very concrete in my ideas to begin with.

I knew there had to be a simple way to add electricity to the van since so many people are building camper vans nowadays. Some people do not use a full-fledged electrical system and only use portable power or generators.

I wanted a system that would be fully installed in my van and would be ready to use at any given time. I also wanted it to be a solar system because I want to be able to rely solely on the sun for the majority of my energy usage.

I’m a big proponent of solar power and with today’s better systems, it’s easy to generate more power from the sun than it ever has been. A simple, small conversion van should have no problems whatsoever having a solar system that runs everything within the rig.

I decided to look for a ready-made solar system that was one unit and had everything already done for me and provided standard 120 volt AC outlets as well as USB ports and a 12-volt connection for all of my 12-volt accessories.

This is when I discovered Goal Zero. I came across this company during my research and was intrigued by their offerings. I thought their Yeti 1400 portable solar power generator would be the perfect solution for what I was looking for. This generator offers 1400 watt-hours of electrical energy.

All of this running off of a lithium battery bank. Lithium has many advantages over the deep cycle AGM batteries that many people use.

• Lithium batteries are not as heavy as AGM.
• Lithium batteries are smaller and more compact.
• Lithium batteries last longer.
• Lithium can be drained fully with no problem. AGM batteries shouldn’t be drained past about 50% or so.

I liked the idea of having lithium batteries in my van.

Although they are more expensive than AGM batteries, I believe it to be worth the cost for use in my van conversion.

I planned to use the Goal Zero Yeti 1400 and then to utilize installed power outlets that would connect directly to the Goal Zero unit. The Goal Zero would be connected to solar panels on top of my roof and would be charged using the energy from the sun.

I decided that 200 watts of flexible solar panels would be plenty to keep my battery charged.

Goal Zero Yeti 1400

The first order of business was to purchase the portable solar generator. I was fortunate to find it on sale around the holidays so I got a good deal on it and went ahead and ordered it.

I had picked the perfect spot under my bed that it would sit and be strapped in out of the way and would allow me to have energy flowing throughout my van without even seeing the unit.

As you can see in the picture, I built a box over the wheel well and a padded spot on top of the box where the goal zero would rest. I padded this area so that it would work as a shock absorber of sorts as the van drives down the road.

I also built a bumper area around the whole thing so that it would stay put more easily. The front part is hinged so it’s easy to remove the Yeti 1400. Since this unit is portable, it can also serve purposes in other places as needed.

I have used the unit inside my house during power outages and also in places around my property where extension cords would not reach. It’s handy having a portable solar generator that can be installed in your van but can also be removed when you need power elsewhere.

It’s easy to disconnect everything and then pull it out of the van and use it where needed. Once I’m done with it, I can simply put it back where it goes and easily plug everything back in and I’m ready to go.

This made my electrical system install so much easier than it would’ve been if I had tried to build a custom electrical system or pay someone else to do it for me.

In this way, I purchased the portable solar generator and the engineers at Goal Zero had already done the work for me. There was no guesswork and no safety concerns of me building some kind of homemade electrical system on my own.

To me, this type of system is ideal for conversion vans since it makes the process so easy and allows you to use it in other ways besides just in your conversion van.

The system is strapped down tightly by its handles using heavy-duty hooks that I installed on each side of it. It’s held in tight with ratcheting straps so that it doesn’t move while driving.

Installing A 12 Volt DC Fuse Block

For all of my 12-volt accessories, I installed a fuse block that they would connect to. The fuse block that I used is the Blue Sea Systems Fuse Block that allows up to 12 circuits; more than I will need.

This fuse block has a negative side and a positive side making it easy to connect 12-volt circuits. This was used for accessories such as my ceiling LED lights, ceiling max air fan, water pump, and garage lights.

All of these accessories attach to the fuse block and then the fuse block connects to the Goal Zero 12 volt Anderson port using a special cable. This allows 12 volts to flow to all of the devices connected to the fuse block.

All of those circuits will be protected with a fuse that is installed in the fuse block. If there were a short in the system, then a fuse would blow instead of causing further damage.

This is the first line of defense since the Goal Zero Yeti 1400 itself has built-in fuse technology as well.

My refrigerator is also 12 V but I did not connect this using the fuse block. I connected my refrigerator using the 12 V “cigarette lighter” type connection and it connected directly to the Yeti 1400.

12 Volt DC Accessory Wiring

There wasn’t a lot of wiring to my simple electrical system. The only accessories that needed wiring throughout the van were the LED lights and switches, the Maxxair fan and the water pump.

For these, I used 14 gauge stranded wire. There were also a few runs that I used 14/2 wiring designed for outdoor lighting. The main thing is to use a wire that is stranded instead of solid.

This is basic wire with a positive and a negative side and the connections were very simple as all circuits were connected in parallel and at the fuse block, the red wire was attached to the positive circuit and the black wire was attached to the negative circuit.

I had three different circuits for my lights throughout the van. Each light circuit in the van connected to other lights in the van in parallel. In layman terms, all lights connected red/red and black/black.

That left me with one positive and negative wire from each light circuit that ran to a switch. From the switch, one positive and one negative wire ran to the fuse block.

For the Maxxair fan, a positive and negative wire was run from the fan to the fuse block.

The water pump required the same wiring; one positive and negative wire.

All of these devices were easy to connect by just connecting the positive to the positive circuit and the negative to the negative circuit.

In total, I used six circuits on my fuse block and the fridge connected directly to the Yeti 1400 so there were 7 12-volt circuits when all was said and done.

To connect these to the fuse block, I used Fork Spade Wire Connectors. These help to make installing the wires more secure and it neatens up the area as well.

These were also capped off with heat shrink tubing to protect the wires from moisture and to make my wiring layout neat.

Since the terminal ends were blue, I wanted to make them red and black so that it would be easy to see what is what. The heat shrink tubing allowed me to do this. Some of the wiring I used was all the same color, making it difficult to tell positive from negative. The colored heat shrinks help to set them apart.

120 Volts AC

For the 120 volt AC plugs in my van, I used a version that made it simple for my system.

Essentially, they are extension cords with outlets at the end of them. I only installed two of these in my van. One of them in my kitchen and one of them in my dining area.

Both of them were installed and the wire was run to the location of the solar generator. They were plugged in directly to the AC ports that the Yeti 1400 provides.

This was simple and I didn’t have to do any wiring for my AC system. It was all pre-done for me and the system was already wired for it in a safe way that I didn’t have to worry about.

It made the whole process much simpler and I can sleep well at night knowing that I used items that were done by people who know what they are doing versus me who has no qualifications to install something like this from scratch.

I could have hired someone to do this for me but I didn’t want to do that because there would have been a cost to doing that and I probably wouldn’t have ended up with it done the exact way I wanted it.

The only problem of doing it this way is that the outlets that I chose are only rated for 12 amp instead of the normal 15 amps. This isn’t a problem for me because I am not plugging very much stuff into it other than a space heater and a very small portable air conditioner.

These items by themselves are within the amp rating of the plugs so I should be safe to use these.

Solar Panels

After the Yeti 1400 was installed and all of the wire runs were connected using the fuse block, as well as the AC power plugs, the next thing to do was to add solar panels to keep the Yeti 1400 charged.

Solar seems complicated at first when you begin looking into how it all works but it is very simple. I needed to have solar panels on top of my roof with wires that come down from the solar panels and plug directly into the yeti so that it can charge using the sun’s energy.

The problem with this was figuring out exactly what cables I needed and what connections I needed for it to work between the Renogy solar panels I used and the Goal Zero unit that I used.

Fortunately, this was easy to accomplish because there are cables and connectors that you can use to easily accomplish this.

It took a little bit of research and ordering the wrong thing a time or two but I finally understood what I needed and the process ended up being much simpler then I thought it would be.

I was able to install the flexible solar panels on the roof without drilling through the roof. I used a combination of sticky products. The first one was double-sided Gorilla tape that I used to stick the panels to the roof. The second way I secured them was with Everbond tape.

I used 4-inch tape that was run around the perimeter of the panels. Everbond is very sticky and the panels are secured tightly.

The solar panels that I used have very short leads coming off of them. For some reason, on the Renogy panels, one side is shorter than the other so I had to purchase an extender to go on the short side so that I could neatly route both sides together.

From there, I used branch connectors to connect the solar panels in parallel to each other. The negatives connected together and the positives connected together and then I was left with one positive wire and one negative wire from both panels that would run down to my Goal Zero unit.

I accomplished this with two 15 ft 10AWG extension cables. One for positive and one for negative.

These two wires entered my van through the rear camera housing instead of the roof. This was a genius solution that I had found somewhere else online and utilized it myself. It kept me from drilling holes in the roof to bring the wires through.

Once the wires were inside the van, I routed them down to where they needed to be through the dead space in the wall until they came out exactly to where I needed them to be.

From there, I would need another part that connected these MC4 connectors to the Anderson connector on the Yeti. I used an MC4 to Anderson adapter to accomplish this and it worked perfectly.

Once that was done, I had input wattage coming in from the sun.

The only task left to do was to neaten up the wires, label them and make sure everything was tight and installed to where they wouldn’t move. I used cable ties and wire loom split tubing to protect wires where they entered or came out of the wall.

I neatly routed them to where the wires would be easy to plug and unplug so that the wires would stay in place when I wanted to remove the portable solar unit.

At this point, I had a full electrical system installed in my van and it was simple to do considering the options available. I didn’t have to wire anything myself and I didn’t have to do any guesswork with high powered electrical equipment.

The system I used worked perfectly for my needs.

Simple Shore Power Socket

In keeping with the simple electrical system that I had already built, I wanted to add a simple shore power solution to my van as well. There are times when I may need a little more electrical power when I am camped in RV Parks or other places that offer hook-ups.

An added benefit of this is that it gives me another way to charge my solar battery bank when the sun isn’t cooperating.

I chose to use a 15-amp socket instead of the larger 30-amp socket that many larger motorhomes have. I don’t foresee using this very often but it is nice to have the option of plugging into electrical power if needed.

The solution that I came up with was to use a part that would essentially allow an extension cord to pass through the wall of my van. The extension cord would come from the power pole at a campground and plug into the socket on the outside of my van.

Inside my van, I could then unplug my AC outlets from the Yeti 1400 and plug them into this socket instead. This would allow my wall outlets to harness the energy of shore power instead of pulling from my solar battery bank.

The specific product that I used has dual extensions coming off the back of it so you have two cords in which you can connect to. This was perfect for my case because I have two outlets in my van that will need electrical power.

This type of product is very simple to install. It only requires that you drill a 2-inch hole in the side of your van where you want the device installed and three small holes for the screws. Mine was installed on the rear passenger side behind where my solar generator sits.

It has a gasket but it did leak a little bit after I first installed it. I chose to take it back off and add a little silicone around the hole and screws holes. This stopped all the leaking and it hasn’t leaked since.

The extension cords coming off the rear of the socket are in a position that makes it easy for me to unplug from the Yeti 1400 and plug into these extensions instead.

Conclusion

I think the portable solar generator that I used pairs very well with a camper van conversion. It allows you to have the best of both worlds.

On one hand, you have a fully working electrical system in your van and on the other hand, you can remove it at any time and use it elsewhere whether you are using it tent camping or using it around your house to provide power during a power outage.

The choices are endless with the Goal Zero Yeti 1400 as you can use it anywhere you wish since it is a portable unit. Portable solar units work great if you are like me and don’t want to fool with a custom electrical system.

It still allows you to do things yourself but without the risks associated with designing and building an electrical system.

This system was simple to install and it has provided me with enough power to power all of my devices while the solar panels keep my battery charged at near 100% at all times.

The lowest I have let it drain to thus far has been 74% but this was during periods of low sun and when the sun comes back out, it charges up rather quickly and it’s back up to 100% in a very short time.

I’m glad I went with this type of electrical system in my van and hope this information helps you if you are looking to add a simple electrical system to your camper van conversion.

Products Used In My Electrical System

Solar

• Goal Zero Yeti 1400 – my solar powered generator that provides electrical power throughout my van.
• Renogy 100 watt Solar panels – flexible solar panels that I have mounted to the roof.
• Solar panel extension cable – extension for one of the short leads on the flexible solar panel.
• Branch connectors (2) – these connectors allow you to connect multiple solar panels together.
• 15 ft 10AWG Solar Extension Cable (2) – cables that run from the branch connectors to the solar generator.
• Cable gland joints – I used these to pass my solar wires through the rear backup camera so there would be no leaks.
• MC4 to Anderson adapter – connect the incoming solar wires to the Yeti 1400.

Electrical

• Acegoo LED lights – I chose these for my lights throughout my ceiling.
• 14 AWG wire – the wire I used to wire most of my 12 volt accessories.
• Light switches with dimmer – simple light switches I used for two of my light circuits. I used the large version on one circuit and the small version on the other.
• Light switches – simple light switch without a dimmer for my shower area.
• Wire crimps – this is what I used to connect wires at each ceiling light and other areas where splices were required.
• Heat shrinks – I added these to the ends of the wires where they attached to the fuse block.
• Wire loom split tubing – this helps to protect wires where they may touch metal areas.
• Fork spade wire connectors – used these to connect wires to the fuse block.
• Zip ties – I made my wires neat and tidy with zip ties.
• Yeti cable to fuse block – this connects the fuse block to the Yeti 1400 using the Anderson port.
• Blue Sea Systems Fuse Block – this allows you to connect multiple 12 volt circuits easily to the Yeti 1400.
• Fuses – make sure and add the proper sized fuse to each circuit for it to perform properly.
• 15 Amp Shore power socket – this is an easy way to add shore power to your conversion van.
• 30 Amp to 15 Amp adapter – you may need this in an RV part to connect to a 30 Amp circuit.

Installing the ceiling in my van conversion was a fun project and one that wasn’t very difficult. The process was easy once I had already laid the foundation with furring strips, insulation, and wiring.

After all of the necessary parts were in order, it was time to cover up the ceiling. I chose to use cedar planks because I love the look of it. There were also other reasons which I’ll discuss later in this article.

I started with the first plank in the near center of the van next to where my shower had already been built since the shower went all the way up and attached to the ceiling.

I had spent a lot of time getting the shower squared so I knew that if I followed the layout of the shower, my planks would end up straight. I used this as a reference to get my first ceiling plank straight.

The first plank went all the way from front to back and that gave me a starting point that I could work off of for the remaining planks. I would be able to continue working from that centerpiece out towards the sides of the van and in theory, everything should end up straight.

This worked out great. Once I got to the sides of the van the planks were still straight. Even parts that were slightly off would be covered with the overhead cabinets anyway so it wasn’t a big deal.

My goal was to make it look completely straight for someone walking in the van and looking up at the ceiling. The visual part of the ceiling would run from the front to the rear of the van and be completely straight to the eye.

I’m a perfectionist on details like this and I wouldn’t be able to stand it if it was slightly crooked. This can make the difference in a professional look or an amateur look so be sure you get your first plank straight and then all the other ones can be built off of this first one and they will stay straight.

After you install the first plank, it’s just a matter of moving either left or right of that first one and installing each subsequent plank in a staggered position from the first one.

It’s best to make sure the seams are not butted up against each other because they will hold tighter and it looks better if they are staggered.

I staggered my boards by measuring different lengths to where the seems would not meet the seem from the plank next to it. I ended up with a few different measurements along the way and repeated it after every third row.

Parts & Tools I Used

• 1/4 inch cedar planks – I purchased these from my local Home Depot. I ordered two boxes of these and each box contained 18 planks. This was more than enough to finish my entire ceiling.
• Miter Saw – This was my most used tool during this process. This is the ideal tool to use for installing cedar planks because it ensures that you will make each cut straight and the ends of the planks will butt together nicely.
• Fine-tooth blade miter saw blade – I recommend using a blade of at least 60 teeth per inch so that you can have a nice clean cut without splintering. I started the process using a rough cut blade and it splintered way too much and didn’t look very good.
• Jigsaw – Beyond a miter saw, I also used a jigsaw with a fine-tooth blade on it for areas that needed more than just a straight cut. You will probably need a jigsaw so that you can cut around different parts throughout the ceiling unless you have an empty ceiling.
• #6 1-inch zinc-coated screws – I used the SPAX brand screws here and most everywhere throughout my van. I chose screws for my ceiling because I wanted it to hold good. If I was to use nails, they could back out over time and come loose as I am driving down the road with the vibrating van.
• LED Lights – As you go along, you’ll have to decide where you want lights if you will be installing flush mount ones as I did. I already knew where my holes needed to be for my lights because my wires were already run and marked.
• 2 1/4 inch Forstner bit – When I came to the spot where I needed a hole for a light, I used a Forstner bit and drilled a 2 1/4 inch hole to allow for my LED lights to fit into. A Forstner bit works great for this application because it drills such a clean hole.
• 3/32 drill bit – When installing the planks with screws, it’s best that you drill a small hole through the wood first. This will help to keep the planks from splitting which happened a few times to me in the process when I tried to do it without drilling a hole.
• Countersink bit – This will create a larger indention in the plank where the screw head will seat.
• Speed square – I also used a speed square so that I could mark straight lines at each location where I was to cut the plank.

Using Screws vs Nails

Some people may decide to use nails to hold these planks against the ceiling but I chose to use screws for a few different reasons.

The first reason is that screws will stay tight without coming loose and even if any were to come loose they are easy to screw back in and tighten up. With screws, I feel more confident that my ceiling is securely installed.

The second reason is that the cedar planks are fragile and may not take the abuse of a nail gun. I have a brad nailer that I tested on a few planks and found that even on the weakest setting, the brad nail almost shot all the way through the plank.

Not only that, but the jolt from the brad nailer puts a dent in the fragile wood at each location where you install a nail.

In my experience, it’s much better to use screws to hold the ceiling planks on. It may be different if you were installing them in a house that isn’t moving. However, a van moves and vibrates constantly so you want to be sure the ceiling is held in tightly.

The Installation Process

The installation process was very easy to do and there wasn’t much to it once you took the time to get the first plank completely straight. Here is the process that I used during the whole installation until it was completed.

Step 1

Install the first plank in the center or close to the center of the van as I’ve already discussed above. Once you do this, you will have a base in which you can work off of to install all the other planks on both sides of the center one.

Step 2

Decide on a side to start. For me, it was the passenger side because this was the easiest to work with as it was wide open and nothing had been installed on that side yet.

Decide on the measurements you will need for that row so that the ends are staggered with the row next to it.

Cut one section at a time and install it and then measure again before cutting the next section. For mine, each row of planks has about 3 sections of various lengths staggered throughout the van.

Step 3

Install the planks. It’s simple, you just place the planks into place and insert the tongue into the groove and make sure they are tightly seated. Be careful though because these 1/4 inch cedar planks are fragile if you try to push too hard on them.

The tongue and groove sections can easily break if you aren’t careful.

Once you have the section in place and tight against the plank beside it, now is the time to drill your hole. I used a 3/32 inch drill bit to drill up through the plank and slightly into the furring strip. I then used a countersink bit to create a seat for the screw head.

Once the holes were in place, I used a drill driver to install the screws. Just make sure not to get these too tight because they may crack under the pressure of a tight screw.

Step 4

Repeat the process. Keep doing this until you have installed all sections from the center towards the sides of the van. You’ll get the hang of it once you begin the process.

Note: It helps to have two people but it’s not necessary. I did mine completely by myself and had no issues. The planks are so light that one person can easily handle it. Even full-length planks are easy to work with.

Difficult Areas

The tricky part is going to be the sides of your van along with the front section that curves inward. There may also be sections where you will have to build around something such as the ceiling fan.

You may have to cut some planks with a jigsaw so that they will fit around areas like these.

I had to cut a plank in half longways and at an angle for it to meet up with my wall on the driver’s side. This was probably the most difficult part of the whole install. It was more guesswork than anything coming up with the right angle for a perfect fit.

Parts like these will be trial and error and you’ll have to figure out a plan to make it work.

Pros Of Using Cedar Ceiling Planks

1. It’s very lightweight. It weighs next to nothing and is easy to work with because of this. One person can easily do the job.
2. It looks awesome! The look of it reminds me of a rugged, outdoor cabin that makes me want to spend time in it. It gives my rig more character.
3. It’s easy to install. The ceiling was one of the first things I installed in my van so I was glad that it went so smoothly. It was an easy job for such a great looking finish.
4. Mold and mildew resistance. Not that it eliminates the chance of having these issues but it is more resistant than other types of woods that one might use. When you are in a small area like this, mold and mildew could be an issue so having something like cedar is a good idea.
5. It smells great! Cedar has a wonderful smell but it does dissipate after a while. After a year of being installed, I can still smell it if I get up close to it so it does last for quite a while.

Cons Of Using Cedar Ceiling Planks

1. Expect some planks to be unusable. I purchased three packages of the planks because I knew some would not be useable. Some were warped, cracked, bent and broken so there was quite a bit of waste. Purchase more than you think you need if you are going to use this product.
2. Expensive. If you were to use another solution like plywood and just create a solid ceiling, you would spend less money.

Installation Tips

• When cutting, be sure and use a fine-tooth blade. This is important if you want it to look well-finished. Using a course blade will create splintering and have it looking like an amateur job. A 60 TPI or higher blade is recommended. I started out using a rough cut saw blade and it looked horrible.
• Be sure and cut each piece as straight as possible. A miter saw is the best choice for making straight cuts as long as your miter saw is set at a true 90°. This is important because you want the ends of each section to be straight when they butt up against another section so there will be no gap.
• Think it through as you are installing it. Be sure to choose pieces that complement each other as you are moving throughout the ceiling. Many of the pieces have different shades of coloring and some are more knotty than others. Be intentional about where you put pieces and make sure they blend in well with other pieces around it.
• Purchase more wood than you think you’ll need. I would guess that 20% of the planks will not be useable for long runs. You will be able to cut shorter pieces from bad pieces but just know that it is normal to have some bad planks.
• Use screws. I would suggest using either stainless steel or zinc coated screws. These shouldn’t rust with any moisture in the van and will keep the ceiling held tightly.

Conclusion

Installing cedar planks on a van ceiling seems like the obvious choice to me. Nothing says outdoorsy and has a camper feel like a cedar plank ceiling.

Living near the Smokey Mountains, I have become accustomed to staying in rustic cabins that have plank walls and ceilings. Although these are usually made from pine, they are similar in style.

When I’m in my van, it makes me feel like I am in a cabin in the woods. It has that rustic feel to it that makes me feel like I am on a vacation.

I used a lot of white in my van as a lot of people do to help brighten up the area and make it feel larger. The Cedar ceiling helps to offset the amount of white throughout the rig.

I recommend using cedar planks in van builds like this because it is super lightweight and that is one of the main things you are looking for. It’s important to keep the weight as low as possible for many different reasons.

The Cedar ceiling gives you a great look without adding a lot of weight.

There are heavier woods and thicker wood that you could use on your ceiling and a lot of people do. However, the quarter-inch planks I used are perfect for a van.

To use furring strips or not to use furring strips. That seems to be a question that many people ask when building a custom conversion van.

The answer, of course, is to do whatever you feel is right for you. There is no one size fits all solution when it comes to customizing a van so that it can serve as a camper.

My choice was to use furring strips in my build. There are a few reasons that I chose to do this.

1. Furring strips create a consistent place to screw in the finished wall and ceiling products. Once you install them, you will have consistent strips of wood that make it easier to attach the finishing product to.
2. They create a more secure hold. As long as you bolt the furring strips in tightly, the wall can be screwed in nicely to the furring strips creating a very strong and secure bond.
3. It allows a little more space for insulation & wiring. You wouldn’t want to put the ceiling and walls directly on the metal because you need a buffer from the metal of the van. This buffer allows you to insulate and also gives you more room to run any wiring you may need.
4. It allows you to use fewer screws. It’s good to minimize the number of screw holes you put in your van. Anytime you drill holes, you are opening that area up for possible rust issues in the future.

A lot of van builders use self-tapping screws that go directly into the metal of the van. I am not a big fan of this approach and I tried to avoid this.

The approach that I used allowed me to bolt the furring strips to my metal van using the holes that were already there. Then, other products screwed into the furring strips.

This is similar to using wall studs in a house. They provide wall space and also a place in which to screw in the finished wall or ceiling. I wanted to try to emulate this as much as possible although using much smaller studs.

Promaster Furring Strips

If you own a RAM Promaster, installing furring strips is pretty simple. The layout of the van has the walls and ceiling fairly straight and flat so it’s easy to install the furring strips onto the van supports.

Some of the other vans on the market are more rounded so it makes it more difficult to install straight pieces of wood.

Parts & Tools I Used

There isn’t a lot to putting furring strips up in a van. The main things you need are the furring strips themselves.

I used a few different types of wood for these. My ceiling was outfitted with 1×3 inch Poplar wood. On the sidewalls, I mainly used 1×2 inch furring strips that you can pick up at any Home Depot or other home improvement centers.

Beyond that, only a few tools are needed, depending on the approach you’ll use to mount them.

I used rivet nuts to secure the furring strips in various places around the van.

If you are working with a Ram Promaster, you will need a few different sizes throughout the van. The main size you’ll use is 10-24. You’ll also use 1/4″-20 and 5/16″-18. I used 5/16″-18 in the hex holes that are in the side ribs of the van and they worked perfectly.

If you have these three sizes, you’ll have everything you need to make it work.

To install these rivet nuts, you will need a tool. The tool is the most expensive part but it’s so worth it. There are other ways that you can mount rivet nuts without the tool but I highly suggest you use the proper tool for the job if you want to make sure the nuts are secure and won’t come out in the future.

The Tacklife Rivet Nut tool worked great for me and it allowed me to install the furring strips without any problem.

I used a combination of bolts in various sizes that would fit each rivet nut size. Mainly I used 1 1/4″ long bolts in #10-24, 1/4″-20 and 5/16″-18 sizes.

I installed all of my furring using bolts as well as pocket holes. I did end up using a handful of self-tapping sheet metal screws for added support in some areas.

Van Conversion Ceiling

I started on my ceiling since I wanted to first install the ceiling and then work my way down. The ceiling was difficult for me to figure out in the beginning because I wasn’t sure how I wanted to do it.

My main concern was keeping enough headroom in the van so that you could easily stand and walk around. Adding too much stuff to the ceiling, along with the floor would take away some of the headroom.

In the end, I used 1 x 3 inch Poplar wood for the furring that attached directly to the roof supports. I used three separate pieces on each support so that I could more easily mirror the curvature of the roof.

This allowed me to create a nice set of furring strips on the ceiling while keeping the ceiling as high as possible.

You could use one solid piece of wood for each roof support but this would shave a few inches off the ceiling in the middle since there wouldn’t be as much curvature.

The tricky part was the front support and the rear support. These required a bit different of an approach to accomplish.

Front Support

The first support beam located in the front of the van is used to attach the headliner in the front of the van. To expose and make use of this support beam, you have to cut some of this headliner off.

My solution was to cut some of the material off on the side and then attach my wood to the angled side of the support beam.

Once that wood was attached, using rivet nuts, I was able to attach my normal furring strips to those wood locations along the beam.

It’s tricky to do but if you take your time and think it through, it’s doable and mine ended up working out great.

Rear Support

Similar to the front, the rear support beam required some ingenuity to make it work. The main issue here was figuring out how to align this furring strip with the rest of them throughout the van.

There wasn’t a beam to work with in the back so I had to create multiple pieces of wood and bolt them to the rear ceiling wall. I bolted them using Rivet Nuts in the holes that were already there.

The furring strips were screwed into these pieces of wood from the side, creating a strip of furring across the rear similar to what I had done on the other beams throughout the van.

The pieces of wood that I used to bolt to the rear wall also will serve another purpose. They will become the supports on which I install the finished trim piece after all is done.

After all the furring strips were in place, I could then run wires, clean up the insulation, add Reflectix and then begin working on my finished ceiling.

Van Conversion Walls

Furring strips on my van conversion walls were a little different. In my case, I did parts of the van as needed and didn’t do the areas that didn’t need it.

Many people install furring strips over the entire walls when it is empty. This is fine if it works for you but I opted to do it differently so that I could save a little space, work effort, money, and weight.

I installed the furring strips where I would need them and this included areas like the upper cabinets, wall areas and other furniture areas that needed something to attach to.

Most areas received at least some furring except for the garage area.

The trickiest part of this was the rear sidewalls of the van above the bed area. It would’ve been easy to create furring strips that went straight down but instead, I wanted more headroom when laying in bed so I had to do something a little different.

My furring strips in this location start at the top and then go straight down just below the upper cabinet area. After that, I transitioned to a wider layout allowing for more bed space.

This made a big difference in creating more headroom and making it a more comfortable place to sleep.

Conclusion

I consider furring strips to be a necessary part of properly converting a camper van. If you skip this step, you will need to install different parts of your van build directly to the metal framing of the van.

This may work for you but you may also come to a point during your build when you will have wish you had done it differently.

You will also be opening yourself up the possibility of walls being crooked and other non-professional looking areas. The furring strips allow you to create a straight base that you can work with so as long as your furring is straight, your other items will mount to it and look professional.

My advice would be to think it through and only use it as needed. Also, try and make use of the holes that are already in your van by using Rivet Nuts or Plus Nuts. These can help keep your items tight and secure and built to last.

Building a custom camper van can be a huge challenge. Especially for those who are not proficient in DIY construction projects or those who don’t have tools or a place in which to work.

I know that it can be difficult because I went through the process.

I started from an empty cargo van and ended up with a finished camper van that I am extremely happy with and proud of.

There were many times throughout the process that I considered quitting and just selling the van as-is so that someone else could finish it. It was difficult and was also exhausting as I spent so much brainpower trying to figure everything out.

I worked hard on it but there were times I felt like I was getting nowhere. I set deadlines for each section only to see those deadlines come and pass while I wasn’t even close to being finished with that section.

Yep, my enthusiasm was waning with each day of this build.

I’ll be the first to admit that my build would’ve gone much smoother if I had just settled for certain things. Instead, I was meticulous in the process and wanted my finished van to look as though a professional had done it. I take pride in my work and wanted my camper van to show it.

If you are looking to build a van, I hope the following instructions can help you. I’ve already done the hard work and I hope that I can explain what I have done so that It won’t be so difficult for you.

After all, the hardest part is figuring out how you will do it and the exact tools and products you need.

The outline below details the exact steps and in the same order that I completed them in order to arrive at a finished camper van.

It would be a super long post if I were to go into detail on each item. Instead, I have given a summary and provided a link to a more elaborate post for each section in case you want the entire story.

Parts & Tools I Used

Before we begin, learning what parts you need and the tools that can make the job easier is essential for completing the job with your sanity in place.

I was lost when I first began my build. I thought I knew exactly what I needed but I was way off on some parts. Building a custom camper van is not a standard practice so you will have to search high and low for solutions unless you know specifically what you are doing.

View my list of recommended products and tools

Choosing & Purchasing A Van

The first step in the process was to decide upon a van that I would use for the build. For this, you need to decide what you want. Initially, I planned on purchasing the smallest van I could so that I would have a cheap van that I could use. I didn’t want to spend a fortune on the build.

However, once I really got into it, my needs changed. There were some important questions I had to ask myself during the process to come to a conclusion.

• Do I want a van that I can stand up in?
• Do I want a new van or is a used one ok?
• How small is too small?
• Would I rather have a van that uses gas or diesel?

By asking questions like these, I was able to narrow down my search and learn exactly what I wanted.

My goal was to have a minimalistic solution to a camper van so I didn’t want something huge but it couldn’t be too small either.

The sweet spot van for me was the RAM Promaster 2500 159″ wheelbase.

You can read more here about the journey I went through to find and purchase my van.

Choosing A Van Build Layout

The fun part comes during the layout process where you can dream a little and design your van the way you want it. This is where the benefit of building your own van versus purchasing a manufactured camper van has its benefits.

With a manufactured class B motorhome, you are stuck with whatever floor plan the manufacturer has chosen so if you don’t like one, you have to find a whole new brand or manufacturer.

With a custom build, you have a blank slate and can do what you wish with the space you have.

This doesn’t have to be a difficult process and you don’t need fancy software or an app to perfectly design your van. You just need an idea in your head, a pencil, and paper or a tablet with drawing capabilities (I used the iPad with the Apple Pencil).

Prepping Your Van

If you purchase a used van, there will probably be some work to do before you can get started. There may be commercial shelves installed, holes in the floor or other things that you’ll have to clean up before you can begin.

In my case, my van had tie-downs mounted to the floor. There were also metal tracks and other wood planks mounted to the floor.

I purchased my van used and someone used it to haul a motorcycle and used these tie-downs to strap the bike in. I had to spend a lot of time uninstalling these and then patching the holes and sanding areas that needed it.

After that, I applied a Rustoleum rust-prevention paint to the floor. It looked like a brand new van floor after I was done with all this work.

Read more about my van prep

Subfloor

After my van was prepped, I started on the subfloor and this was my first experience into the van build. The subfloor is the obvious place to start and probably the first place that anyone would start.

You have to do the floor before you can do anything else so this is typically the beginning point to any van build.

My subfloor consisted of 1×2 furring strips to build up an area in which to add insulation and a final 1/2 inch plywood flooring that would allow me to have a straight and even floor throughout the van.

Although many people do not use insulation on the sub-floor, I found it to be a great added addition and besides adding some insulation from heat and cold, it also helped to deaden the road noise making for a quieter camper van.

Read more about my subfloor installation

Roof Fan

If you don’t install a roof fan in your van, you are asking for a hot and stale van in the summertime. A roof fan can be great for allowing airflow whether you are pulling air in or out of the van.

My roof fan works in conjunction with windows to move air through the van. This makes all the difference when you experience a warm summer night and need airflow in which to make the experience more pleasant.

A roof fan can also be used as an exhaust for when you are cooking or taking a shower in your van. My roof fan is used to pull moisture out of my van when I’m taking a shower since it is located right next to it.

It is also close enough to my kitchen that it will pull moisture and cooking odors out of the van allowing me to remove unwanted smells from the living area.

I chose the Maxxair fan for my van and I love it. Although it can be one of the scariest things to install, it’s really simple and I have documented my process.

Read more about my Maxxair fan installation.

Insulation

Insulation can be a tricky part of the van build because some people skip this or do a minimal job on it. I, however, feel that this part is required if you prefer a more temperature-controlled environment.

Installing insulation doesn’t mean that you are making your van immune to the hot or cold weather. It simply means that you are adding additional layers that allow heat transfer to be slower than it would otherwise.

This can allow your van to stay cooler in the summer and trap heat better in the wintertime.

Many people argue over the best type of insulation because there are many different options that you can use. I used Thinsulate by 3M in my build and I am glad that I went with it.

It was super easy to install and although it was probably one of the most costly ways, I saved a ton of time by using it.

I was able to insulate the ceiling, walls, and floor of my van using a combination of Thinsulate and rigid foam board. I also used quite a bit of Reflectix in the process as well.

The Reflectix was installed over top of the Thinsulate with a small gap in between in order to help keep the heat transfer to a minimum.

Read more about my insulation process

Bed

Perhaps the most important part of the van build is the bed that you will sleep on during your travels. The bed needs to be comfortable and not just a makeshift item.

I wanted my bed to be something that was just as comfortable as what I was used to in my house.

My bed-frame is very simple and was one of the first items that I built in my van. My bed consists mainly of two support braces on each side of the van with three supports spanning between the two support braces.

On top of that, there is a slat system where my mattress rests.

I built my bed high enough so that I can store items underneath it and especially my bikes. I intend to have my mountain bikes with me during my trips because I love to ride.

I finished my bed off with a comfortable memory foam mattress. This mattress works well for my camper van and provides a nice comfortable place for me to sleep while out on the road.

Read about my entire bed build

Ceiling Furring

The next step in my build was to install furring strips on the ceiling so that I could install the cedar wood covering. This is a step that I consider necessary but many people may screw their finished ceiling directly to the metal roof.

Why did I choose to use furring?

1. I wanted to create a small gap between the ceiling and roof so the insulation would be more effective and also have room for electrical wires.
2. I wanted to utilize the holes in the ceiling braces to install the furring strips. Once the furring strips were installed I could screw my ceiling to it, giving me a more secure final product.

I used poplar wood for the furring strips and was able to utilize the wood that was in my van when I purchased it. I cut them into small strips and attached them to each support of the ceiling in three sections.

This worked great for me and allowed me a sturdy ceiling in which I could easily screw in my cedar planks and also staple wires for my lights.

I was able to utilize the holes that were already in the ceiling supports by using Rivet Nuts. I installed them using a rivet gun so that I could attach the furring strips using bolts.

This meant that I didn’t have to drill any holes. Although, there were a couple of places where I did end up drilling new holes.

The rivet nuts hold strong and gave me a very sturdy base for my ceiling.

Shower Framing

After the ceiling furring was installed, I wanted to start on framing the shower walls before installing the finished ceiling.

I will have a different finished ceiling in the shower so it made sense for me to do this so that I could build the main area ceiling around the shower.

The shower walls were built and attached to the floor as well as the ceiling furring. Installing the shower at this point allowed me to frame some walls that were completely squared and straight.

Those walls would become the source for aligning other structures that were built later on.

At this point, I built the side walls and the rear wall frames. This included finishing the outside of the shower with 1/4 plywood walls.

I did not close any of the inside walls up because I would still need to install insulation in the walls and run wires for the shower light and switch.

Framing the shower was my first realization that this build was going to be difficult to get things straight and square. It isn’t like a house where you are already starting with a squared structure. With a van, you have to deal with the curvature of the van as well as the likelihood that it will never be level.

Read about my complete shower installation.

Ceiling Wiring

Once the furring strips were in place and the shower framing was installed, the wiring was next. My floorplan had 7 LED lights in the ceiling. I needed to run wires from each of these 7 locations to where the light switches would go.

I made sure to do this before I had installed anything over the walls or ceiling so that I would have full access and space to run the wires.

I used 14/2 wire for this application which is overkill for these types of small voltage devices. However, it’s always better to use the thickest wire you can when you are dealing with electrical devices. At least, that’s my thinking.

The LED lights that I chose use very minimal voltage and current.

Installing the wiring was an easy process. I connected each light in parallel on the circuit where multiple lights were on.

In simple terms, this just means that all lights connected to the circuit by connecting red to red and black to black.

Each circuit went to a switch that will be used to control the lights on the circuit. In my case, I had three different circuits; front lights(4), rear lights(2) and shower light(1).

Now that the wires were all run for the lights, I could move forward with installing the wood covering for the ceiling.

Ceiling Cedar Wood Covering

I chose to use cedar on my van ceiling for a few reasons.

1. I love the look and smell of it.
2. It is resistant to mold and mildew which is important in a small living area that is prone to moisture buildup.
3. It’s very lightweight so it’s perfect for the ceiling.

Installing the cedar wood was easy for the most part. It’s much easier if you have two people doing it but a single person can get it done just as well with a little patience and maybe a few four-letter words.

The cedar planks that I chose were 1/4 inch tongue and groove so the key was to get the first one perfectly straight and then all of the other pieces fit onto this one to provide a straight, perfectly finished ceiling.

I used #6 3/4 inch screws to hold the planks into place and I screwed them directly to the furring strips that I had already bolted to the frame of the van ceiling.

I used a miter saw with a 60 tooth fine-finish blade to cut the planks to lengths as I was installing them.

I also cut holes that were 2 1/4 inches in size in the pieces where the lights would go. The lights that I chose simply push into the holes and hold themselves into place with spring clamps.

This was the first point in my van build that I felt a sense of accomplishment. Looking up at the finished cedar ceiling, made it feel like it was finally taking shape and I was excited to keep moving forward to see how the finished product would turn out.

Read more about the cedar plank ceiling installation

Ceiling Lights

Once the ceiling wood was all installed, I was left with a few holes throughout the van. There were six holes in the main living area and one in the shower.

All of the wires had already been run to each hole so all that was left to do was to connect the wires to the lights and then push the lights into the holes.

Before doing this I had placed some small, 3/4 inch pieces of wood above the cedar wood at each hole location to provide a tiny bit of spacing for the lights. I did this because I did not want the lights touching the insulation.

I wasn’t sure how hot the lights would get so I wanted to make sure there was enough breathing room on the backside of the lights for them to dissipate heat.

You can feel some heat coming off the back of the lights so I didn’t want to take any chances on the lights heating up the Reflectix and causing a fire.

The lights fit perfectly into the holes and the connections were easy to make.

Cabinets

I decided to go with a unique area in the front of my van that would be a combination of different cabinet types. I came up with this idea after a lot of thought on how I wanted the area to be once it was finished.

The top cabinet, as well as the long, floor to ceiling cabinet that is installed next to the shower wall, is designed to enclose an area that will have a bench with a lagoon table as the dining area.

I chose this location because I wanted the bench facing towards the sliding door. There will be a window on the sliding door and I want to be able to sit on the bench with a full view of the outdoors.

Besides that, I can always have the sliding door open on nice days and enjoy full views.

Since I already had installed the shower walls, it was easy to build the floor to ceiling cabinet next to the shower. Once that was built, I just continued another ceiling cabinet towards the front of the van.

These cabinets will provide ample space for storage. The bottom area that comes out the same distance as the shower wall, will be a drawer and also a small area with seating.

Having part of the cabinet set back like it is opens the area up more when you are sitting on the bench. Otherwise, you would feel more closed in without as much of a view towards the rear of the van.

This front cabinet contains one of the electrical outlets that I’ll be installing so a wire was run for this during the process. The wire was run through the cabinet and the shower framing and will be routed to the solar charger under the bed in the rear of the van.

The rear of the van has one wall of cabinets that I added over the bed. I will only have rear cabinets on one side. The other side will need more space to provide plenty of headroom while sleeping.

These are done the same way the front cabinet is utilizing furring strips that I had installed on the wall.

Front Bench – Dining Area

Initially, I found the perfect bench online and considered ordering it. It was a perfect size and would fit perfectly in this area with just a tiny bit of customization. The problem was that it would have cost around $700.

I decided to tackle the build myself and copy the bench I had found. I built it to look almost exactly like the one I had found and after it was built, I installed it in the van. It was a perfect fit and the bench itself adds to the storage in the van.

The bench area raises, revealing an open space for storage and also the back of the bench opens forward to reveal even more space for storage.

I purchased the cushioning online at Ballard Designs which fit perfect. I had built the bench to fit the dimensions of this cushion. For the small square seating area, additional fabric was ordered and I had a small cushion created to match the larger one.

All of the cabinets and the bench were attached to the van using furring strips that I had installed on the wall in this area. I installed furring strips using rivet nuts as I had done on the ceiling.

Read more about my dining area installation

Walls

The walls of my van were not done all at one time. I did them in sections starting with the front of the van. After the front cabinets were installed, I completed that area by closing the wall in using shiplap.

I love the look of shiplap and decided to use it throughout the van. It’s really easy to work with and looks great when finished.

The same shiplap was used in the rear of the van but there was an additional problem in the rear. I needed to create more space at the bottom of the wall where the bed goes. I did this by using furring strips to frame around the van supports on the wall.

It was a challenge getting everything straight but that’s where my creativity came into play and I figured it out. By doing this, I provided more head and foot room when the bed was installed.

This was a great choice to do and I recommend that you try to utilize all the space you can like this if you are going to be installing your bed sideways.

Read more about my shiplap installation

Electrical Outlets & Light Switches

I chose to use simple electrical outlets that have built-in USB ports. These are basically power strips that are made to be mounted like a standard outlet. The other end will plug into a standard plug providing you with an extended outlet.

This works great for my build since I am using the Yeti 1400 from Goal Zero for my power source. This unit has two 120 volt plugs that I simply plugged these outlets into.

I chose to use dimming light switches for the living area and just a standard on/off switch for the shower. It’s nice having the dimmable option because the lights can be a little bright at times and it’s handy to be able to tone it down a bit.

It’s great for setting the mood.

The outlets and light switches were simple to install since I had already run the wires. I just cut the appropriate opening in the shiplap and on the cabinet wall where the outlet would go. They are held in with screws.

At this point, I still had one more switch left to install but it was to be installed in the kitchen cabinet and I had yet to install that.

Solar Panels

I Installed my solar system in various stages. The first step was to mount the solar panels to the roof of the van. When the time was right, I ran the wires from the solar panel to where my solar charge controller will be.

I ran my wires a little unique from the way most people do. Instead of drilling another hole in the roof of my van to run the wires, I utilized the rear back-up camera housing.

By doing this, I avoided the possibility of leaks from a new hole in the roof.

When I installed the wires through the camera housing, I used waterproof pass-throughs that does not allow water to enter.

If I decide to ever get rid of this, I can easily take the wires out of the camera housing, plug them up or even purchase a new camera housing for fairly cheap.

The solar panels are the flexible type and I mounted them on top of two layers of corrugated plastic and then I used double-sided tape along with Everbond to stick them to the roof. Again, I didn’t want to add new holes to the roof by bolting or screwing the panels down.

Tip: if you are installing flexible solar panels, you should use corrugated plastic or something that allows the solar panels to sit up off of the metal roof. This helps them to stay cooler and may increase their lifespan.

Many people have overheating issues with flexible solar panels mounted directly to a metal roof. Do yourself a favor and avoid this mistake.

Rear Half-Slider Window

At this point, I had most of the walls except for a small area in the rear where the window would go. I left this open as I waited for the window I had ordered to arrive.

Installing the window was another scary part of the process because another hole had to be cut. There is no room for error when you cut something like this and I certainly didn’t want to mess up and end up with leaks.

I paid attention and created a template that was a bit on the tight side. If you are going to cut a hole like this, it’s important to always err on the side of being safe rather than sorry.

I traced the template and cut the hole and it ended up being perfect. It was tight but a perfect fit.

After all was said and done, it was really simple to install once you get over the fear of cutting a hole in the side of your van.

Kitchen

My kitchen is pretty simple. It consists of a cabinet with doors and a few drawers and on top of that is the countertop with a sink and faucet.

I chose not to do a built-in grill or anything fancy. I prefer to use a portable propane stove so that it can be used inside or outside whenever I choose.

The hardest part of the kitchen build was the base for the cabinet. This is also called a kitchen sink base and I considered purchasing one unfinished from my local hardware store in the beginning.

However, if I was to do this I would’ve had to cut some of the back of it off and refinish it since the ones designed for homes are deeper than I needed mine to be.

In the end, I chose to build my own. I simply used my kitchen sink base in my house as an example and built it exactly like that except not as deep.

The sink I chose was not very deep but it is deep enough and provides a nice area to wash dishes and do your other normal kitchen activities.

I have plenty of counter space in which to place my grill when I want to use that. Once the kitchen base was installed, I was able to then place the light switch at the end of the base in an area where you can reach it as you walk inside the van. This is a handy spot and gives you access to it quickly as you enter the van.

I used butcher block for the counter and stained it with a honey stain and then covered it with multiple coats of lacquer.

I also installed the electrical outlet and a light switch for the rear lights in the wall behind the counter.

This is a handy area because I can use if for kitchen appliances and also reach it from my bed for charging my phone and using other small devices.

Swivel Seat

A swivel seat has been a difference-maker in the front section of my van. Once installed, it has allowed for a larger area upfront and is used in conjunction with my lagoon table to create a nice dining area.

The only problem is that you have to fight with someone to use it since it is the most popular seat in the house.

Eventually, I will add another swivel seat on the driver’s side but I have not done that yet. The reason I have been hesitant about this is that the swivel seat adds about an inch and a half in height to the seat.

I think that this might be a little uncomfortable for the driver.

However, the benefit of having the extra swivel seat may be worth the added height.

I wrote a long illustrated post on how I installed my swivel seat. Read more about this process.

Finished Flooring

I waited until most of the construction work was done before installing the finished vinyl flooring because I didn’t want to damage the flooring with heavy items or tools. At this point in my build, the floor had been just a 1/2 inch plywood.

I even covered the plywood with a protective construction paper so it would stay pristine. It was time to install the finished flooring once all the built-in items were in place including the shower, cabinets, seating and kitchen base.

I worked around all of these items as I installed the flooring.

I wanted the finished flooring in the van before closing off the bed area and installing the fridge.

The vinyl plank flooring was really simple to install and it turned out great. I installed it on the entire van floor including underneath the bed. I used three 20 square foot boxes of the product and still had some leftover.

I would estimate that the entire van took around 50 square feet.

Learn how I installed it here.

Plumbing

The plumbing was done in various stages since I needed water supply on both sides of the van.

My plumbing system is very simple and consists of one large 16-gallon freshwater container. This container supplies water to my shower as well as my kitchen sink faucet.

I used PEX tubing for my supply lines since it is so easy to work with and if done right, is leak-free. It took me a while to decide to use PEX. Initially, it was a bit intimidating since I don’t know much about plumbing.

Once I started working with it, I realized it was simple to use and perfect for a van build.

For my kitchen gray water, I use a 5-gallon container under my sink that the water drains into and it gets dumped as needed.

For the shower, my current solution is to let the water drain right out of the bottom of the van. This will change in the future as I install a permanent gray water tank underneath the van.

The plumbing isn’t much and didn’t require very long runs of tubing to accomplish.

Refrigerator

One of the more difficult items to install for my build was the refrigerator. I went with a top-loading, Dometic CFX 75DZW.

After all my research, I determined that this one would provide the most refrigerator/freezer space while using the least amount of electricity.

It also allowed me to store it under my bed out of the way. I used full-extension slides to mount it under my bed and then created a shiplap wall that it neatly blends in with.

When you want to open the fridge, you pull it out like a drawer, open it up and get what you need. Once you are finished, just push it back in and it’s out of the way.

I used latches to keep it closed. Although, this may change because the latches that I chose make a little rattling noise while driving.

Initially, I purchased the slide specially made for this refrigerator but I ended up not using it the way it was because it doesn’t have full extension. It was a big letdown and I don’t suggest buying it because it’s easier and cheaper to create your own solution.

I did modify it since I had already purchased it and made it work. In the end, it worked out fine but only after completely modifying it.

Read more about my refrigerator installation

Cabinet Doors & Drawers

I had already taken some trips in my van before I installed any of the cabinet doors. I had no issues with items moving around or falling out but I wanted to complete the cabinetry by having doors on them.

This was a time-consuming process as I had to build each door by hand and paint each one. I also had to install the hinges and align each door properly. I took my time on this because it wasn’t a necessary part of the build in order to use the van.

I stuck with the Shaker style in my design for the cabinet doors which I custom built. It was made easy by using a router with a tongue and groove bit.

It was a challenge getting them to look perfect but I got the hang of it after a while. With the help of a Kregg Jig and lots of clamps, I was able to create doors that I’m happy with.

Final Touches

The final touches on a van will never end but some of the final touches and clean-up I had to do after all was said and done include the following.

• Paint all walls & cabinets
• Install door knobs & handles
• Install latches to hold doors closed
• Patch any remaining nail holes and paint over them
• Cover open areas in sliding door and rear doors with a cloth covering
• Neaten up wires on the electrical system
• Clean up any messy areas
• Add tie-down eyelets in areas where needed (shower, under kitchen cabinet)
• Install paper towel holder
• Install towel holders
• Install front security curtain
• Add running boards on each side of van

The list goes on and on and I’m sure I will find more items to touch up or improve on as time goes by. When you build something custom like this, there’s always something that you can find and improve regularly.

Tips

If you have never built a custom van for yourself or do not have a lot of experience building anything, you are in for a roller coaster ride.

There are many ups and downs along the way and there will be times when you feel like you are not accomplishing anything. On the other hand, there will be different stages of your van build where you will feel as if you have accomplished a lot.

Here are a few tips that I have learned from experience and hopefully they can help you along the way on your conversion.

• Be flexible in your design plans because not everything is going to go as planned and you may need to change things around.
• Don’t spend too much time on insulating your van. I spent way too much time on this and in the end, it doesn’t make that much of a difference.
• Take your time, unless you are in a hurry to get it done. Slow and steady will ensure that you end up with a properly designed and built van.
• Budget more than you think it will cost because it will likely cost more.
• Do everything with the end in mind. Build everything with the knowledge that you could possibly sell it someday. This will help to ensure that you won’t cut corners and it will be done right.

Final Thoughts

Building a van is quite a challenge but is not so difficult that it can’t be done. I’m living proof that a van can be converted to a camper and become a nice living space.

I’m extremely happy with the way my van turned out and I’m proud that I was able to make my plan work out in the end.

I believe that creating a custom conversion van is a great way to acquire a motorhome while spending less money. It gives you a chance to do it your way and create something that suits your needs.

Research and plan accordingly and your build will be much easier. There are many moving parts to a properly converted van so make sure you take your time and plan each system in advance and you will end up with something that you can be proud of.